March 2022 Newsletter

NEWS FROM SOIL SERVICE- Beautiful weather means spring is almost here!

FIRST BATCH OF FLOWERS ARE IN!!!!

Hours Change

Garden Center        Monday 9am – 5pm     Sunday 10am-5pm

Nursery                    Monday 9am – 5pm       Sunday Closed

FLOWER/GARDEN BED TO- DO LIST

BED PREPARATION

  BED PREPARATION

This time of year it’s easy to get in a big hurry putting in plants, and we end up working soils that are either too wet or dry. Doing this is not a good thing. Digging in overly wet or dry soils ruins soil structure that takes years to recover. If the soil is too dry simply wait for rain or hand water a day or two before digging. If too wet, wait a few days to let it dry some before grabbing the shovel. After you add soil amendments and do the rough digging, the Garden Weasel is a fantastic tool to break up larger dirt clods and finish grade the bed. Simply go back and forth with The Weasel until it’s broken up to your satisfaction.

SOIL AMENDMENTS A MUST FOR KANSAS CITY
GARDENS

We all know our heavy clay soils easily compact, which squeezes out oxygen that plant roots need to thrive. Soil amendments are widely used in KC to improve soil tilth and oxygen levels. Cotton burr compost is a very good soil amendment for our clay soils; but not the only one. Another amendment is HAPPY FROG SOIL MIX. This increasingly popular amendment comes in a 3 cubic foot bale and includes slow release organic plant nutrients and beneficial mycorrhizae fungi (more on mycorrhizae in this newsletter). Happy Frog is an especially good choice for new or raised beds, neglected gardens, or ground that has been waterlogged or compacted by construction equipment.

MYCORRHIZAE

Mycorrhizae (my-co-rye’-za) are literally one of the most important fungi in the world. Around the mid 1990’s the plant care industry learned how to make products with this naturally occurring fungus that is now routinely used by the landscape/nursery and forestry industry. Every year we have more and more customers who understand its benefits and use it at planting. If you are new to our newsletters or not yet familiar with these amazing organisms, here’s a short version of the mycorrhizae story

MYCORRHIZAE INFO SHEET

TRANSPLANTS NEED ROOT GROWTH HELP

When a plant is taken out of a container or dug up and moved, physical handling causes microscopic root hairs to slough off, which leads to transplant shock and slower recovery after moving. Using a root stimulant at planting means less transplant babysitting.

WHY WE USE ROOT STIMULANTS

A natural hormone, Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) initiates new root hair growth that minimizes transplant shock and gets plants off to a happy, healthy start. Routinely used by professional landscape contractors, Ferti-lome Root Stimulator contains this hormone and we highly recommend using it at planting and for the first 2-3 waterings. Simply add 3 ½ tablespoons of Root Stimulator to a gallon of water and water normally.

TIME TO PRUNE ROSES

We get a lot of calls this time of year from customers asking about pruning roses. Please see the enclosed information from Kansas State that explains how and when to prune.

Pruning Easy Care Roses

TIPS FROM THE TURF PROS


WATCH OUT FOR THESE EARLY WEEDS-

Chickweed and henbit are winter annuals that germinate in the fall and are hard to see until now when their
growth takes off. Wild onions and garlic are also coming up. They all grow early and fast in spring before we get in “control the weed mode”. The bad news is this weed train has left the station if you wait until late spring or early summer to control them. The good news is they can all be controlled now when they are small using Ferti-lome Weed Free Zone for your lawn. Your choice in the garden is either hand digging or using glyphosate (Ferti-lome Killz-all). Please come see us sooner vs. later for the best way to control these and other troublesome weeds.

LAWN AND GARDEN PRE-EMERGENT WEED CONTROL

If you use our Soil Service Lawn Care program, this is a reminder that it’s time to apply STEP 1 for a
light nutrient feed with crabgrass pre-emergent weed control. If you are not on our program but need help with your lawn, please come see us now to learn about our “do-it-yourselfer” and $$$ saving
programs. They’re really quite simple, fun and personally rewarding when you have a great lawn that YOU made happen!

Most everyone is familiar with Preen for flower beds. It’s an excellent product and the label has recently expanded to include many garden veggies. We also have Hi-Yield Dimension that has an expanded use label. Unlike Preen, Dimension can wait up to a week to be worked in by lightly raking or rainfall. So if hand weeding is not your thing, come see us for the right product for your needs.

You may hear that you should mow your fescue or bluegrass lawn as short as possible for the first spring mowing. This is not good advice.

DO NOT SCALP FESCUE OR BLUEGRASS LAWNS IN EARLY SPRING

Some people will tell you to set your mower as low as you can for the first fescue or bluegrass spring
mowing. This misguided reasoning is that it removes brown leaves and helps the soil warm more quickly resulting in quicker greenup. First off, the grass does not green up more quickly. The brown leaves are
just hiding green leaves below so removing those leaves is strictly cosmetic. Some years the brown is on the leaf tips so lowering the mowing height by one notch is OK assuming the normal and correct
mowing height is 3-4 inches. This year though, the leaves are brown almost to the soil line so just leave them alone and the lawn will gradually and naturally green up over time. Second and most
importantly, scalping the lawn does not appreciably warm the soil but does open it up to more weeds because there is less cover to compete against germinating weed seeds. Also, mowing too short a little too
late causes a hormonal effect on the grass. The end result is season long stress and increased susceptibility to heat/drought and diseases problems. SO- DON’T SCALP FESCUE/BLUEGRASS LAWNS IN SPRING!!!!!

THANK YOU FOR YOUR BUSINESS

COME SEE US AND LET’S KEEP GROWING!

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September 2019 Newsletter

Soil Service Garden Center News: The Grass Seed Issue!

This is it folks; prime time for grass seeding in Kansas City, and especially for shady areas that ideally are seeded by mid-September. This is when we go all out for a great lawn next year.

  START WITH THE RIGHT SEED

Before you buy grass seed this fall, learn why choosing seed from Soil Service Garden Center can make a big difference.

HANDOUT OF K-31 VS. TURF TYPE FESCUE

Don’t forget to use Ferti-lome New Lawn Starter fertilizer the same day you seed. It doesn’t really matter which one you apply first but most people prefer to lightly incorporate seed then spread the fertilizer.

FOLLOWUP FERTILIZATION IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!

A few weeks after seed germinates, it’s hungry for nitrogen fertilizer. If you haven’t fertilized the rest of your fescue and/or bluegrass lawn, go ahead and fertilize the new seed and existing lawn with high nitrogen Ferti-lome Lawn Food Plus Iron. This should be done no later than early October but around mid-September is better. But we’re not done yet! The lawn needs one more high nitrogen feeding when it’s still green but for all practical purposes, you’re done mowing. Feed from late October into November for this dormant/winterizer feeding from Ferti-lome Winterizer fertilizer.

WEASEL/ SEED/ WEASEL FOR SMALL AREAS

The Garden Weasel is a fantastic tool for seeding small areas.  It does a great job both loosening the soil and lightly incorporating seed. It’s common to have shaded areas with a thin stand of grass that needs to be overseeded. The trick here is to “ Weasel” in early September and lightly work the ground when seeding. Just remember that regardless of the area, the sequence is “weasel/seed/weasel”. Come by the Garden Center and we’ll show you how to do this.

SEEDING ON SLOPES IS A CHALLENGE

Establishing grass on slopes can be frustrating if untimely rains wash seed away before it establishes. Here are some ways to increase your odds for success………

SEEDING ON SLOPES

If the area is somewhat large, core aerate and then seed. The seed washes into the holes and germinates like little plugs. The more holes the better so making 2-4 passes works just fine and grass fills in more quickly than if a single pass is made.

•             If the area is small try a wood tomato stake to punch holes with the stake and hammer to simulate an aerator.  Punch holes about 2 inches deep.  Again, the more the better.

•             Use Seed Aide pelletized mulch widely used in the professional turf industry. Seed Aide has a tackifier (think glue) that holds the mulch and seed in place to minimize seed washing. Best of all it doesn’t cost any more than other seed mulches. Seed Aide bags cover app. 1000 sq.ft.

•             You can use erosion control blankets that are rolled out like a carpet over the seed. Quick Grass Pro covers 140 sq. ft. and the larger version of this, Curlex, covers 450 sq. ft.

MOST WEED CONTROL PRODUCTS HAVE SEEDING RESTRICTIONS. IF YOU USE A LAWN CARE COMPANY………

Since most herbicides can hurt seed germination, we urge you to check with the lawn care company to see if they recently applied or will soon apply weed control. This means they need to know your seeding plans. Since 1990 Soil Service Garden Center has had lawn programs for the do-it-yourselfer that take the guesswork out of seeding issues. They are simple and highly cost effective. You can sign up now for this fall and next year, save $$$, have fun and take pride in a beautiful lawn that YOU grow! Come by the Garden Center to discuss how we can help meet your goals for a beautiful lawn.

LAWN RENOVATION WITH OUR LANDSCAPE CREWS

SOIL SERVICE GARDEN CENTER LANDSCAPE CREWS AERATE, VERTICUT AND SEED – The fall schedule fills quickly so we urge you to call ASAP……..(816) 444-3403

JAPANESE BEETLE GRUBS IN LAWNS

By now, just about everyone knows about the Japanese Beetle problems. But we’re not out of the woods yet because they lay eggs in lawns where the newly hatched grubs start feeding on roots. This leads to grass that suddenly dies in August and September. We suggest you keep a close eye on your lawn and if you see dying grass, your Soil Service Garden Center has Dylox granules for a rescue treatment.

Thank you for your business and

Let’s keep growing!!

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June 2019 Newsletter

June 2019 Email Newsletter

Soil Service News- Rain, Japanese Beetles, Vine and Brush Control

TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING?

This extremely wet spring can easily lead us into a false sense of security because our lawns and plants look great right now.

THE DOWNSIDE TO TOO MUCH RAIN

This extremely wet spring gives us a false sense of security because our lawns and plants look fantastic right now. But there are potential problems lurking once summer temperatures kick in. Here’s the issue; all plant roots need oxygen to thrive. Our native soils are high in clay that easily compacts, and compaction limits oxygen in the soil pore space. This is why we aerate our lawns in the fall and add soil amendments to our garden beds. Constant rain also displaces oxygen, and this means our lawns and plants have less roots. So, if we have periods of dry weather this summer, plants my need to be watered more frequently because of what happened this spring. It’s counter intuitive and no need to panic but something to be aware of.

TIPS FROM THE TURF PROS

With all this rain, Brown Patch fungus in fescue lawns could be a big problem when summer hits. Here’s a way to predict when this disease is active.

PREDICTING BROWN PATCH IN FESCUE

An updated way to predict when Brown Patch (Rhizoctonia solani) becomes active is by using the “flip-flop” rule when nighttime temperatures of at least 68 d F and daytime temperatures of 86 d F or more are present for several days in a row. Kansas City’s infamous hot, muggy days with high dew points (in the 70’s) also gives us a heads up that the disease may be active. Control is difficult, especially with this year’s heavy disease pressure, but your Soil Service Garden Center will do our best to help with your situation.

 

Here are a few other ways to manage this disease:
Do not mow fescue lower than 3 inches nor let it get too tall between mowing.
Do not mow when wet or when dew is present, especially in hot weather.
If needed, only water early in the morning and never in late afternoon or evening.

JAPANESE BEETLE CHANGES & LAWN GRUB CONTROL STRATEGY

Now that the Japanese beetle is a permanent resident in Kansas City, preventative lawn grub control may become a routine practice. The adults prefer to lay eggs in grass, and once the eggs hatch, the larvae (grubs) can really do a number on grass roots so we end up seeding dead areas in the fall. Not much fun. We will soon send a separate email about this important insect, but in the meantime we urge you to consider a preventative lawn grub treatment with Grub Free Zone II applied Father’s Day weekend and available at your Soil Service Garden Center.

 

 

VINE AND BRUSH CONTROL

Have you ever cut brush or vines only to see the plants come back with more shoots after cutting? You can fix this problem.

CUT AND TREAT THE SAME DAY

We see this all the time. A customer comes in to get a control product for a stump, vine, or brush that was cut a week or two before seeing us. Unfortunately we have to tell them the train left the station because the plant heals the wounded area within a day of cutting. This quick healing blocks a control product from moving to roots where it kills the plant. Your Soil Service Garden Center stocks Ferti-lome Stump and Brush Control to keep plants from coming back. Mix with water and Ferti-lome Spreader Sticker for foliar applications or apply undiluted, without spreader sticker, to a freshly cut vine or stump. This is the time of year to get rid of these problem plants once and for all.

 

Thank you for your business,
Come see us and,
Let’s Keep Growing!

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May 2019 Newsletter

SOIL SERVICE NEWSleter – Rose Issues, Tomatoes, Nutsedge, Fungus and Much More!

ROSE BLACKSPOT

Rose Blackspot is a serious fungus with symptoms that show up around mid- late May. Warm, wet weather or overhead watering really sets it off

ABOUT ROSE BLACKSPOT

Blackspot is a common fungus on roses:

Spores survive winter in fall leaf debris and mulches. Mulch that overwintered in rose beds should be removed, discarded and replaced with fresh mulch every spring.

The disease begins on lower leaves and moves up the plant.

Heavily infected canes have raised red-purplish spots that eventually blacken, and it may be necessary to remove them to prevent spores from infecting the following year.

Control products should be applied beginning at the first sign of disease and follow up treatments will be needed. Soil Service Garden Center has several products available. Treat sooner rather than later.

LOOK FOR ROSE SAWFLY FEEDING

Over the past 4-5 years we’ve seen a ton of sawfly damage on rose leaves so we suggest you start looking for damage now.

ABOUT ROSE SAWFLY

The rose sawfly is not a fly but is related to bees and wasps. The larvae, also called rose slugs, begin feeding in mid-late spring and, depending on species, can have multiple generations per year. This means several insect control applications may be needed during the summer. Sawfly feed on green leaf tissue but not the leaf veins, causing a netted appearance on the leaves that may be confused with Japanese beetle feeding but shows up in May vs. mid-late June for Japanese beetle damage. Inspect both the upper and undersides of leaves to look for light green sawfly worms. Several control options are available at Soil Service.

Rose Sawfly Adult
Rose Sawfly Damage
Rose Sawfly Larve

GROWING GREAT TOMATOES

Anyone growing tomatoes knows they can be a bit of a challenge. Here are some helpful hints for growing better tomatoes.

Click below for some great informational handouts:

 

YELLOW NUTSEDGE

Yellow nutsedge usually shows up around the end of this month, and if we have a lot of rain, we know it can really take off.

STAY ON TOP OF YELLOW NUTSEDGE:

  • If ignored it WILL take over your lawn or garden.

  • Do not try to dig it up because root fragments left behind will cause even more plants to come up.

  • The only way to control it is with a post-emerge product; Hi-Yield Nutsedge Control or products with Sulfentrazone.

  • Begin treating in late spring or early summer, and multiple applications may be needed.

  • The only choice for gardens is glyphosate (Hi-Yield Killz-all) or Roundup.

 

IS IT TOO LATE TO FERTILIZE FESCUE OR BLUEGRASS?

We’re rapidly approaching the end of fertilizing fescue or bluegrass this spring. If you choose to make one final application before next fall

FERTILIZING IN MAY

 

If you regularly water your cool season (fescue and/or bluegrass) lawn during the summer OR you have not applied fertilizer this spring, this is your last chance to feed your lawn until September. This application has a couple of rules:

  • Timing- fertilize no later than mid-May

  • Use less nitrogen than fall applications and

  • Use a higher percentage of slow release nitrogen than fall applications. The Garden Center likes organic Milorganite. It works and has a very reasonable cost.

 

FEED ZOYSIA/BERMUDAGRASS IN SUMMER

Fertility strategies for zoysia and bermudagrass are considerably different than fescue/bluegrass.

FERTILIZE ZOYSIA AND BERMUDAGRASS AT FULL GREENUP

Unlike cool season grasses, zoysia and bermuda are fertilized in summer and prefer more of the quickly available nitrogen. For either grass:

  • Apply Ferti-lome Lawn Food + Iron about June 1.

  • Make a second application of the same product July 15.

Fertilome Lawn Food Plus Iron

LAWN DISEASES

While it’s too early to predict this summer’s disease problems, we can keep a few things in mind

BROWN PATCH FUNGUS IN FESCUE LAWNS

  • This soil borne fungus typically infects the grass in mid-late May.

  • Avoid afternoon/evening watering that increases disease problems.

  • Avoid fertilizing in late spring or summer.

  • Do not let grass get too high between mowings, and cutting height should be 3-4 inches.

  • Do not mow wet grass, and keep that blade sharp!

We have Ferti-lome F-STOP (liquid or granular) or Ferti-lome Systemic Fungus Control (liquid only) to help with control. Then we hope the weather cooperates!

ALL MULCH IS THE SAME, RIGHT?

Now is a great time to refresh your mulch with Soil Pep

CHOOSE THE BEST MULCH FOR YOUR NEEDS

Mulch helps soils hold moisture for less plant stress and lower water costs. It also keeps down weeds. That’s the easy part. Our most popular mulch is Soil Pep, a partly decomposed small pine bark mulch. Soil Pep keeps its rich dark brown color without fading like dyed mulches. It also doesn’t crust over like the least expensive mulches. Those are two strong points right there. Like all mulches, Soil Pep eventually breaks down and makes an excellent soil amendment, especially when you prepare new beds with our heavy clay soils. You and your plants will be glad you used “Pep” this year!

LAST CALL TO TREAT EMERALD ASH BORER

We’re about out of time to treat Emerald Ash Borer. We have Ferti-lome Tree and Shrub Drench on hand, and it needs to be used no later than mid-May.

CABBAGE WORM ALERT

If you grow cabbage, collards, mustard, kale or broccoli, be on the lookout for a white butterfly

GET READY FOR CABBAGE WORMS

This seemingly innocent insect flutters around the plants and lands for 10-15 seconds to lay eggs. The real fun begins when the eggs hatch.

These worms are well camouflaged and have voracious appetites. They love to make holes in leaves. The good news is that the worms are controlled with several  products, so keep your guard up on this food robber!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THANK YOU FOR YOUR BUSINESS!

COME SEE US AND LET’S KEEP GROWING!

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April 2019 Newsletter

APRIL 2019 EMAIL NEWSLETTER SOIL SERVICE NEWS- Emerald Ash Borer, Critters, Organics, Mowing Fescue and Much More!
DEALING WITH EMERALD ASH BORER (EAB)
The Emerald Ash Borer has been in KC long enough that anyone with ash trees knows the sad truth is you will eventually lose the tree. But if it’s healthy now and you want to keep it as long as possible, you can either call a tree care company or treat it yourself with Ferti-lome Tree and Shrub Care soil drench. Your spring window to treat is early April to mid-May when trees actively move control products and nutrients from roots to leaves.  
WATCH OUT FOR HOSTA LOVING CRITTERS
Unfortunately there are a couple of critters that love hostas; slugs and those rascally rabbits
SLUGS AND BUNNIES WREAK HOSTA HAVOC
About this time every year we have a boatload of customers come in with chewed up hostas. Holes in the middle of the leaf are probably from slugs. They party hard at night (when you should be sleeping) then hide under mulch during the day, which means you probably won’t see them. Rabbits take out big chunks along the leaf edges. Bunnies can take hostas down to the nub at one feeding and newly emerging plants are especially attractive to the furry little darlings. Soil Service Garden Center has Sluggo, Hi-Yield Slug and Snail Bait and Rabbit Scram for these critters. Rabbit Scram      
PLANTS NEED TO EAT TOO!
Your Soil Service Garden Center has a huge selection of organic plant foods from Espoma and Fox Farm. We also have Hi-Yield sodium nitrate which is the ONLY organic quickly available nitrogen, and many choices of Hi-Yield and Ferti-lome traditional plant foods. Your Garden Center understands fertilizers can be confusing and we would be glad to help you with your plants’ fertilizer needs. Your plants will thank you for feeding them!    
MORE ORGANIC CHOICES
Your Soil Service Garden Center carries a full line of organics including potting mixes, mycorrhizae and control products. Here’s a short but by no means complete list of our organic product line ORGANICS FOR YOUR GROWING NEEDS Garden Soil Amendments- Happy Frog soil amendment with organic plant food and mycorrhizae, Mykes mycorrhizae + organic fertilizer for transplants Lawn Food- Milorganite Weed Control- vinegar or fatty acids for non-selective annual weed control Fungus and Bacteria Control-copper soap- best when applied as preventative Insect Control- neem oil, pyrethroids (derivatives of natural insect control in chrysanthemums), Ferti-lome Spinosad and Natural Guard Spinosad with insecticidal soap. Your Soil Service Garden Center came up with a simple way to tell the difference between organic and traditional fertilizer and control products. Organic products have bright green shelf tags.    
TAMING WILD VIOLETS AND CREEPING CHARLIE
Wild Violets and Creeping Charlie (also called Ground Ivy) are two of the meanest weeds in Kansas City, and it’s not unusual for these troublemakers to hang out together

ABOUT WILD VIOLETS AND CREEPING CHARLIE

They look like harmless cute little plants at first, but trust us; ignore them long enough and they will take over your lawn. Violets are more difficult to control and unfortunately many products list them on their labels, but the reality is that Triclopyr is the best product- and it also controls Creeping Charlie, clover, and other perennial broadleaves. This only comes in a concentrate, so you’ll need to break out the pump-up sprayer. If you don’t have a sprayer, see us at the Soil Service Garden Center and we’ll fix you up. Ferti-lome Spreader-Sticker should always be used with Triclopyr. Be ready to treat several times during the year because new ones will pop up, but now is the time to start! WILD VIOLETS CREEPING CHARLIE

Tips from the Turf Pros- Mowing Fescue Lawns

Anyone who has a fescue lawn knows this is the time of year when it grows fast- as in REALLY FAST between now and around mid-May in normal years. This means we should mow more often than the typical once a week on Saturday morning. Mowing every 4-5 days is better for this grass until growth slows as we move into summer. Remember to keep the blade sharp and don’t mow when the grass is wet. THANK YOU FOR YOUR BUSINESS! COME SEE US AND, LET’S KEEP GROWING!
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February 2019 Newsletter

NEWS FROM SOIL SERVICE- ALMOST SPRING – HANG IN THERE!

FEBRUARY IS NATIONAL BIRD FEEDING MONTH (REALLY!)

Natural bird food supplies start to run out in late winter, which is why February is National Bird Feeding Month. For a minimal investment you’d be amazed at how entertaining it is to watch them at the feeder. Parents with younger kids will have an especially wonderful entertaining and learning experience observing up close bird behavior!

But, how many times do you think “sure, but if I feed the birds, I also feed the *&%$@# squirrels!”

A BIRD FEEDER SQUIRRELS HATE BUT YOU’LL LOVE!

One of our bird loving employees has a feeder that absolutely prevents squirrels from getting to the seed; The SQUIRREL BUSTER. He has had it for OVER 25 years and swears it still looks and works as good as new. When a squirrel jumps on the feeder, its weight closes the seed opening. It doesn’t take long for it to give up in frustration and find something else annoying to do. When it jumps off, the feeder springs back open. BUT YOUR SEED IS SAFE! We have two sizes for larger seed (standard and mini feeders) and one for finch seed. We’ll say up front they aren’t the least expensive feeders on the market, but they’re built tough and powder coated for many, many years of happy birds and unhappy squirrels! If you want to make it even simpler, just hang the feeder on a shepherd’s hook. You can also hook a suet cage to it and be doubly entertained by woodpeckers, flickers and nuthatches. Come by the Garden Center soon to get started with some of the best winter entertainment in Kansas City!

 

 

 

2019 LAWN CARE PROGRAMS

Your Soil Service Garden Center has offered lawn care programs since 1991! Beware that many nationally advertised programs don’t really fit, in turf speak, our transition zone (google turfgrass transition zone map). National programs focus on the northeast US which is the largest market but also a very different climate from KC.

WE MAKE LAWN CARE EASY

Being locally owned we offer do-it-yourself programs and products that we know work best for our Kansas City lawns. You’ll be surprised how little time it takes to apply them, and the personal satisfaction with substantial cost savings are highly rewarding. When you’re on the program, we’ll even warehouse the products and call you when it’s time for your next application. The first application starts soon so please come in to sign up and get going on a beautiful, healthy lawn.

PLEASE NOTE- Now that the Japanese Beetle is in KC, we urge you to seriously consider a preventative lawn treatment in late June to get the upper hand on the grubs that are quite destructive to both bluegrass and fescue lawns. Our lawn care programs:

 

WEED CONTROL OPTIONS

Customers who have been on our program for several years may need to only spot spray for particularly troublesome broadleaf weeds that granules do not control. Examples are wild violets, ground ivy and clover. If you just need to spot spray or simply want to use less overall weed control material, we will work with you to exchange the granules in the lawn program for a liquid spot treatment product at a Lawn Care Program Member discount.

 

LANDSCAPING SERVICES

Landscaped areas around our homes do change over time and perhaps you feel it’s time to renovate older areas or create new landscaping. If so, we have landscaping designers and crews who would love to work with you! If you would like to set up a design consult please call Colleen ASAP to answer your questions and get on the schedule that fills quickly. You can reach her 8:30AM-4PM Monday-Friday.

 

QUICK REMINDER TO WINTERIZE YOUR MOWER

The last thing you want is your mower to die in mid-season and it isn’t too late to get your mower ready for spring. The most important things to do are clean or replace the air filter, change the oil if it’s a 4-cycle engine, and sharpen the blade. If you don’t sharpen it yourself, we highly recommend having 2 blades. That way, if one gets dull, you can swap them out and not worry about how soon the blade you take in will be sharpened (which could be weeks in spring).

TIPS FROM THE TURF PROS

DORMANT SEEDING

February is the best month to seed if you need to touch up small areas this spring. Dormant Seeding is the process of putting down grass seed when soil temperatures are consistently below 40 d F, normally in February. This practice applies to bluegrass and fescue blends or mixes such as Soil Service Garden Centers’ KC Marathon or KC Endurance. Unlike these cool season grasses, zoysia, bermuda and buffalo grass are seeded in late May/early June.

The idea is that seed falls into soil cracks created by normal winter freeze/thaw cycles and is then lightly covered when soil thaws. You can seed over light snow or use a Garden Weasel to rough up the ground and lightly incorporate the seed for best seed/soil contact. Since the soil is cold, the seed lies “dormant” until soil temperatures favor early spring germination. Furthermore, temperature fluctuations help crack the hard seed hull which gives grass a head start on germination and root growth- important for grass to survive summer heat stress. Dormant seeding can be successful, but it isn’t without risk. For this reason, this practice is usually limited to smaller areas or when laying sod is impractical.

FOLLOW UP FERTILIZATION

Fertilizing with Ferti-lome New Lawn Starter can be made at the first sign of germination, and then a follow up fertilization in April- early May should be made with a slow release nitrogen such as Milorganite, available at Soil Service Garden Center.

WEED CONTROL ISSUES
Dormant Seeding may conflict with spring weed control and careful attention should be paid to all grassy and broadleaf weed herbicide labels regarding timing restrictions. Soil Service Garden Center can provide you the best weed control products for your situation.

SEEDING TIP ON SLOPES

Grass seed mulch materials reduce soil moisture losses to increase germination. But slopes present a problem when heavy rain washes away seed. SEED AIDE solves both of these issues. SEED AIDE has been used for decades in the professional turf grass industry and is unique because it has a “tackifier” that helps hold seed and mulch in place. Best of all, the cost per 1000 sq. ft. is the same as other seed mulches. It’s a win/win for you and your lawn!


GARDEN AND FLOWER SEEDS ARE IN

If you’ve had your fill of winter and just want to see a green plant, maybe you’re ready to start seeds indoors. We carry seeds from Burpee, Botanical Interest, Lake Valley and Ferry Morse. We can help you with grow lights, seed starter kits, and more. Have some fun and let the inner “I’m curious to see what happens” come out!! And don’t forget that once they are growing you should they’ll need to be fed- we prefer using liquid organic plant foods from Fox Farm.

 

       

PLEASE DONATE TO SPAY & NEUTER

It’s not just birds having a tough winter. Our local non-profit, Spay & Neuter is very busy now and using much more straw than normal to keep dogs and cats warm. As mentioned in our December newsletter, they have an account with us to buy straw bales that are ONLY $10. So if you have a minute please drop in or call the Garden Center to make a donation to them. Or call them directly (INSERT SPAY & NEUTER PHONE NUMBER) to donate. Your support makes a big difference!

THANK YOU FOR YOUR BUSINESS!

COME SEE US AND,

LET’S KEEP GROWING

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October 2019 Newsletter

Soil Service News- Lawn Care To-Do’s, Soil Renovation, Moving Plants Indoors and more!

FALL LAWN CARE TO-DO LIST

Fall seeding is winding down, and you might get away with seeding in full sun areas but success in shade is iffy at best. However, sod is a great option this time of year if you want grass. Feel free to call us for your sod needs and we’ll be glad to explain our “hold” list and how it works to ensure you have freshly cut sod for your lawn!

Cool season grass (fescue, bluegrass, and ryegrass) love to be fed with high nitrogen fertilizers (the first number on the bag) in fall. This feeding plays a critical role in root growth that prepares your lawn for next summer’s heat and drought stress. As a general rule of thumb, about 2/3 of the total nitrogen for the year should be applied in fall and the remainder in spring. If you still haven’t made the first application we urge you to get moving NOW. The “winterizer/dormant feed” is made when the grass is still green but you’re pretty much done mowing; late October and into November. Soil Service Garden Center stocks Ferti-lome Lawn Food + Iron and Ferti-lome Winterizer for these applications that are critical for a quality lawn.

Believe it or not, October is the best month to control perennial broadleaf weeds such as dandelion, clover, wild violets, and creeping Charlie. Ferti-lome Weed Free Zone or Ferti-lome Triclopyr Ester with Spreader-Sticker are the products of choice right now to control these common lawn weeds.

Different weeds have different control strategies so if you are not sure what weeds you have, feel free to dig them up (include roots) and bring them to the Garden Center. We’re happy to give it our best shot of weed ID and best control strategies, but please do this sooner rather than later!

Sometimes an area seeded in neglected bare ground can have chickweed and henbit pop up in October. These are winter annual weeds that germinate in October then begin rapid growth in early spring. Ferti-lome Weed Free Zone is very effective on these weeds in fall and early spring but be sure to read the seeding restrictions for newly seeded areas.

BIG TREES AND TOO MANY LEAVES

BIG TREES and their thick, wet layer of falling leaves smother new or existing grass. Be extra careful gently raking or blowing leaves on young grass seedlings using either a leaf blower or leaf rake (not a hard rake)

Check out our handout  “FALL LEAVES ON LAWNS”

PROTECT LIQUID CONTROL PRODUCTS FROM FREEZING!

Many control products can lose their effectiveness if they freeze. To eliminate the guesswork about which ones can or can’t freeze, we suggest storing ALL liquid control products above freezing and preferably above 40 degrees F.

GRAB A SHOVEL

Fall is the best time to “do the digging (ugh!!!)” to renovate your flower and garden beds with soil amendments such as cotton burr compost or Happy Frog Soil Conditioner with beneficial mycorrhizae fungi. Our heavy clay soil needs amendments. Adding them now gives them time to mingle with the soil before spring which is a good thing. It’s like making lasagna or chili where it always tastes better the next day. You also don’t have to worry about rushing to get plants in the ground in spring because the soil prep is already done. That’s a win for you and your plants! So, take advantage of these nice fall days to be outside and get er’ done!

BRINGING PLANTS INDOORS THIS FALL?

With winter fast approaching, now is the time to bring tropical plants inside. As we prepare for this delicate transition, here are tips to ensure they stay healthy and happy.

MOVING PLANTS INDOORS FOR THE WINTER

Bring insidebefore temperatures drop below 50 degrees F.

Treat for insects and disease before bringing them indoors.UseBayer 3 in 1 Insect, Disease and Mite Control, Ferti-lome Organic Neem or Triple Action Plus.

Lightplace by bright window or use artificial grow lights. Do not let direct sun hit plants during the day. As the plant acclimates to less light intensity, it is not uncommon for some leaves to turn yellow and drop. This can happen weeks or even months after moving them indoors and a natural response to the plant adjusting to its new environment. Think of your plants as being in a resting stage that don’t need much water or fertilizer.

Clean-UpPoKon Leaf Shine will shine your leaves without harming them.

Fungus gnats- are common and pesky in winter, usually due to overwatering in high organic soils. It doesn’t take them long to establish but a control product like Hi Yield Systemic Granular (imidicloprid) or organic Bacillus thuriengensis (Mosquito Bits) are effective.

Fertilizing- Our houseplants get very little if any plant food until spring. It is important to let plants rest during the dormant season, allowing them to build up energy for next year’s growth.

Watering- When watering, make sure the top soil layer is dry (stick your finger an inch or so down to check), then water. Allow excess water to drain completely. Avoid using the “wilt test” as the roots can be damaged after periods of frequent over drying. However….

Less water is better. Over watering is a sure way to cause root rot. Watch for yellowing and brown leaf tips which are signs of either too much or too little water. It may take time to get used to their new watering schedule but patience and keeping a close eye on them for the first month or so indoors will generally sort things out!

LEAVE CERAMIC POTS OUTSIDE IN WINTER?

The Garden Center loves ceramic pots but is not happy if they crack during our cold winters!

LEAVING CERAMIC POTS OUTDOORS IN KC WINTERS

A leading cause of cracking is ice buildup in the bottom of the pot. This means the drain hole should be open at all times. Ice can also surround the outside of the pot so we suggest a Down Under (think elevated coaster) available at the Garden Center. Also put a 2-3 inch layer of large bark mulch, pottery shards or lava rock in the bottom. Of course we can’t guarantee that these safeguards always work so if in doubt and you have room, store them inside!

All of us at Soil Service Garden Center appreciate your business!

Come see us and

Let’s Keep Growing!

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September 2018 Newsletter

Soil Service Garden Center News: Fall Seeding, Japanese beetle grubs, Emerald Ash Borer and more!

This is prime time for grass seeding in Kansas City, and especially for shady areas that ideally are seeded by mid-September at the latest. This is when we go all out for a great lawn next year.


START WITH THE RIGHT SEED

Before you buy grass seed this fall, we urge you to learn why choosing seed from Soil Service Garden Center can make a big difference.

START WITH THE RIGHT SEED

BEWARE OF BIG BOX STORE LOW FESCUE PRICES!!

Please take a good look at this unretouched photo. The lighter green grass on the left is Kentucky-31 (K-31) fescue and the grass behind and to the right of it is turf-type tall fescue. The only difference is the type of grass- not a water or fertility issue. Big box stores and garden centers advertising K-31 and low fescue prices are not doing you, or your lawn any favors. K-31 is a pasture grass grown in Missouri. Turf-types are grown in Oregon just for lawns and athletic fields. K-31 is an open, coarse textured and light green grass that can’t match the turf-types for color, density and overall attractiveness. No amount of lawn management will change that comparison and just one of the reasons why Soil Service Garden Center does not sell K-31.

WHO PLANTED THE “ORCHARD” IN THE LAWN?

As if all the above isn’t enough, we see a common theme from homeowners who bought the “cheap” K-31. Orchardgrass is also grown in Missouri and sold as a pasture grass. It’s a perennial that almost always contaminates K-31 and why this weedy grass comes along for the ride with K-31. Unfortunately, the only way to get rid of it is to kill it with Roundup or pull it out. Not much fun!

            

ABOUT SOIL SERVICES’ KC ENDURANCE AND KC MARATHON SEED

We won’t discuss all the behind the scenes details about Soil Services’ KC Endurance (turf-type tall fescue blend) or KC Marathon (bluegrass/fescue mix) but here are the bullet points:

Based on multi-year university trials across the grass transition zone (where we live) we give our seed supplier a list of fescue varieties for our blends/mixes that we think have the best overall performance in KC.

Grass seed is, by federal law, tested for purity, germination, crop seed and weed seed. KC Endurance and KC Marathon are 0.00% crop and 0.00% weed seed, the cleanest you can buy. Now that you know the rest of the story we suggest our seed is an excellent value!!!!

And don’t forget to use Ferti-lome Seed Starter fertilizer the same day you seed to help it get off to a faster, healthier start! Then follow up with higher nitrogen Ferti-lome Lawn Food Plus Iron mid-late September and Ferti-lome Winterizer in late Oct/November.

KC Marathon Grass Seed Mix


SEEDING ON SLOPES IS A CHALLENGE

Establishing grass on slopes can be frustrating if untimely rains wash seed away before it establishes. Here are some ways to increase your odds for success.

SEEDING ON SLOPES

If the area is somewhat large, core aerate and then seed. The seed washes into the holes and germinates like little plugs. The more holes the better so making 2-4 passes works just fine and grass fills in more quickly than if a single pass is made.

If the area is small try a wood tomato stake to punch holes with the stake and hammer to simulate an aerator. Punch holes about 2 inches deep. Again, the more the better.

Use Seed Aide pelletized mulch widely used in the professional turf industry. Seed Aide has a tackifier (think glue) that holds the mulch and seed in place to minimize seed washing. Best of all it doesn’t cost any more than other seed mulches. Seed Aide bags cover app. 1000 sq.ft.

You can use erosion control blankets that are rolled out like a carpet over the seed. Quick Grass Pro covers 140 sq. ft. and the larger version of this, Curlex, covers 450 sq. ft.

 


MOST WEED CONTROL PRODUCTS HAVE SEEDING RESTRICTIONS. IF YOU USE A LAWN CARE COMPANY…

Since most herbicides can hurt seed germination, we urge you to check with the lawn care company to see if they recently applied or will soon apply weed control. This means they need to know your seeding plans. Since 1990 Soil Service Garden Center has had lawn programs for the do-it-yourselfer that take the guesswork out of seeding issues. They are simple and highly cost effective. You can sign up now for this fall and next year, save $$$, have fun and take pride in a beautiful lawn that YOU grow! Come by the Garden Center to discuss how we can help meet your goals for a beautiful lawn.

A QUICK LOOK AT FALL BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI

We have had some crazy spring weather and above average temps this spring. But don’t give up quite yet here is some news about this September’s outlook and what it mean for your yard, thanks to the University of Missouri Plant Sciences.

“Like July, August will turn out mild compared to the scorching May and June that preceded it. Several welcome dips over the last 10 days have brought 2018 August temperatures just about on par thus far. These last few scorching days should bring the month to above average again, however. Since January 2017, this will astoundingly make 16 of the last 20 months with temps above the 1895-2010 long-term average. A short-lived dip is expected mid-week with a cold front hopefully bringing some rain. Unfortunately, the break will be short-lived as above normal temperatures are expected into the first portion of September.”

“The heat and drought have been a historic one-two punch, with the lack of a spring being a haymaker. State Climatologist Dr. Pat Guinan recently summarized the past 12 months in Missouri, which also drastically impacted our forage producing brethren who too depend on a crop that doesn’t get the break of a complete harvest. The driest September 2018 – January 2019 period in over 40 years. An extreme flip in April to May spring temperature that is unprecedented in 124 years of climate observations. The hottest May – June period on record, and a drought in the state of nearly 5 inches below average from April – July (a mere 133,870 gallon shortage per acre). Woo.”

“Two bright points. September is coming. The precipitation forecast is promising, with above normal precipitation expected through the first portion of the month. As shown by the words above and the graphic below, the rain and its enhancement of our seeding and recovery efforts is needed. Second, day length is decreasing. The region has just over 13 hours of day light, whereas in June and early July nearly 2 extra hours of extra sun and heat occur per day. The decrease brings cooler temperatures and the opportunity for recovery. Unfortunately in this late August timeframe though, the darkness also provides extra time for leaf wetness and potential for foliar disease activity on tired plants.”

University of Missouri



LAWN RENOVATION WITH OUR LANDSCAPE CREWS

SOIL SERVICE GARDEN CENTER LANDSCAPE CREWS AERATE, VERTICUT AND SEED – The fall schedule fills quickly so we urge you to call ASAP.


PRIME TIME TO PLANT TREES AND SHRUBS

September and October are excellent months to plant most trees and shrubs. Our landscape consultants can help you select the best plants AND we can plant them for you! If you would like this service please call us soon to get on the schedule. Seeding and planting reservations are first come/first served and quickly fill up. Please stop by the Garden Center or call 816/ 444-3403 if you need this service.


JAPANESE BEETLE GRUBS IN LAWNS

By now, just about everyone knows about the Japanese Beetle problem this year. But we’re not out of the woods yet because they lay eggs in lawns where the newly hatched grubs start feeding on roots. This leads to grass that suddenly dies in August and September. We suggest you keep a close eye on your lawn and if you see dying grass, your Soil Service Garden Center has Dylox granules for a rescue treatment.


ONE MORE SHOT AT EMERALD ASH BORER CONTROL

 

 

We usually think of spring to control the Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) but if you missed the spring window you can also treat from late August thru September with Ferti-lome Tree & Shrub Insect Control. This is an easy to use product that is simply mixed with water in a watering can or bucket and applied to the base of the tree.

 

 


WHAT’S EATING YOUR GREENS BEFORE YOU?

If you have a fall crop of cabbage, kale or collards, expect to have worms gleefully chomping away on the leaves; and these guys can destroy your tender greens within a few days! The 3 most common vandals are imported cabbage worm (adult is a white butterfly), cabbage looper and cross striped worm (moths). The larvae can be hard to find because they blend in with the leaves. You will see them on the tops of leaves but they also really like the undersides, so look closely! Fortunately you can get the upper hand with Natural Guard Organic Spinosad that is simply sprayed on the leaves. It works great!

 

Thank you for your business and

Let’s keep growing!!

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June 2018 Newsletter

June 2018 Email Newsletter

SOIL SERVICE NEWS- Japanese Beetles, Watering, Fungus Issues, Brush Control, and more!

JAPANESE BEETLES

We all learned last year that the Japanese beetle is definitely here and if you don’t think you had them, you probably weren’t looking! We expect the adults to emerge any time now.


ABOUT JAPANESE BEETLES

Japanese beetles are easy to identify; they’re about ½ inch long with metallic bronze wing covers and bright green bodies.

Look for adults to emerge around Mid-June and possibly sooner. Large groups feed mainly in the morning on leaves and fruit.

Damaged leaves lack green tissue with a papery, netted appearance.

Female adults mate continuously and lay eggs in grasses for 30-45 days. This means they have an extended egg hatch in late July into August and lawn damage is seen in August and September.

 

Adults can be controlled with many conventional products but there are no effective organic control products.

 

JAPANESE BEETLE GRUB CONTROL IN LAWNS

Kentucky bluegrass lawns are grub magnets in general and this is just as true for Japanese beetle grubs. Fescue lawns can also be damaged but symptoms are more subtle than in bluegrass. We highly recommend a preventative grub treatment with Hi Yield Grub Out applied about the 3rd week in June to control the early hatch of Japanese beetles and the more common masked chafer grub. But, because they have an extended egg hatch, we should be prepared to make a rescue treatment with Bayer 24 Hour Grub Killer in August or September.

 

FUNGUS ARRIVES EARLY THIS YEAR

We can potentially have more disease issues this year due to much warmer temperatures combined with rain, especially evening rains.

WATERING DO’S AND DON’T’S

Watering mistakes encourage many diseases in lawns and gardens, especially with evening watering. At night, grass and other plants expel a nutrient rich broth of sugars and proteins (exudates) that, when combined with wet leaves, helps fungus thrive. Here are some simple watering guidelines for the garden:

Water only in the morning, preferably before 9AM.

Mulch to block rain or irrigation from splashing soil borne fungal spores onto leaves

If possible, water at the base of plants instead of overhead. Soil Service Garden Center stocks Dramm watering wands that are excellent for this purpose.

For those customers who water their lawns, we have enclosed a Lawn Watering Guide from the University of Missouri:

Home Lawn Water Guide

 

 

TIPS FROM THE TURF PROS

Here’s a new way to predict when Brown Patch fungus in fescue is active.

PREDICTING BROWN PATCH IN FESCUE

An updated way to predict when Brown Patch (Rhizoctonia solani) becomes active is by using the “flip-flop” rule when nighttime temperatures of at least 68 d F and daytime temperatures of 86 d F or more are present for several days in a row. Kansas City’s infamous hot, muggy days with high dew points (in the 70’s) also gives us a heads up that the disease may be active. Control is difficult but your Soil Service Garden Center will do our best to help with your situation.

Bonide Infuse        


VINE AND BRUSH CONTROL

Have you ever cut brush or vines only to see the plants come back with more shoots after cutting? You can fix this problem.

CUT AND TREAT THE SAME DAY

We see this all the time. A customer comes in to get a control product for a stump, vine, or brush that was cut a week or two before seeing us. Unfortunately we have to tell them the train left the station because the plant heals the wounded area within a day of cutting. This quick healing blocks a control product from moving to roots where it kills the plant. Your Soil Service Garden Center stocks Ferti-lome Stump and Brush Control to keep plants from coming back. Mix with water and Ferti-lome Spreader Sticker for foliar applications or apply undiluted, without spreader sticker, to a freshly cut vine or stump. This is the time of year to get rid of these problem plants once and for all.

 

SHORT TAKES ON TIMELY TOPICS

LAWN SURFACE INSECTS

Bug Blaster II is a highly effective granular control product for lawn insects such as ticks, fleas, ants and many other nuisance pests (not grubs). Each bag treats 5000 sq. ft. and is available at the Garden Center.


MOSQUITOS

May rain brings big bunches of hungry mosquitos so once again we will be under attack this summer. Here are a few products for mosquito control:

Mosquito Beater for lawn and gardens is available as an organic repellent or a traditional control product. Both come in easy-to-use hose-end bottles.

Organic Mosquito Dunks are used in birdbaths, water gardens etc.

 

THANK YOU FOR YOUR BUSINESS!

COME SEE US AND,

LET’S KEEP GROWING!

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May 2018 Newsletter

MAY 2018 EMAIL NEWSLETTER

May 2018 Newsletter
SOIL SERVICE NEWS – Rose Issues, Tomatoes, Nutsedge, Fungus and Much More!

ROSE BLACKSPOT

Rose Blackspot is a serious fungus with symptoms that show up around mid- late May. Warm, wet weather or overhead watering really sets it off.


ABOUT ROSE BLACKSPOT

Blackspot is a common fungus on roses:

Spores survive winter in fall leaf debris and mulches.

Overwintered mulch should be removed, discarded, and replaced with fresh mulch.

The disease begins on lower leaves and moves up the plant.

Heavily infected canes have raised red-purplish spots that eventually blacken, and it may be necessary to remove them to prevent spores from infecting the following year.

Control products should be applied beginning at the first sign of disease and follow up treatments will be needed. Soil Service Garden Center has several products available. Treat sooner rather than later.

Organic Control– Copper Fungicide, NG or FL Neem, FL Horticultural Oil

Conventional– Bayer 3-in-1 Insect, Disease and Mite Control, Bayer All-in-One Rose and Flower Care, FL Broad Spectrum Landscape & Garden Fungicide, FL F-Stop

LOOK FOR ROSE SAWFLY FEEDING

We see a ton of sawfly damage on rose leaves. Will this year be more of the same? – READ MORE……

ABOUT ROSE SAWFLY

The rose sawfly is actually related to bees and wasps. After egg hatch, worms begin feeding in mid-late spring and, depending on species, can have multiple generations per year. This means several insect control applications may be needed during the summer. Sawfly feed on green leaf tissue but not the leaf veins. Inspect both the upper and underside of leaves to look for light green worms.

 

 

Several control options are available at Soil Service.

Organic– FL Hort Oil, Bonide Soap, NG Spinosad

Conventional– FL Broad Spectrum Insecticide, Bayer Rose& Flower Insect Killer, Bayer 3-in-1 Insect Disease & Mite Control

GROWING GREAT TOMATOES

Anyone growing tomatoes knows they can be a bit of a challenge. Here are some helpful hints for growing better tomatoes.

Growing Great Tomatoes

 

Blossom End Rot Info Sheet

 

YELLOW NUTSEDGE

Yellow nutsedge usually shows up around the end of this month, and if we have a lot of rain, we know it can really take off.

STAY ON TOP OF YELLOW NUTSEDGE

  • If ignored it WILL take over your lawn or garden.
  • Do not try to dig it up because root fragments left behind will cause even more plants to come up.
  • The only way to control it is with a post-emerge product; Ortho Nutsedge Killer or ProSedge (formerly SedgeHammer).
  • Treat in late spring or early summer, and multiple applications may be needed.
  • The only choice for gardens is glyphosate (Hi-Yield Killz-all) or Roundup. Be persistent!

YELLOW NUTSEDGE IN LAWN

 

IS IT TOO LATE TO FERTILIZE FESCUE OR BLUEGRASS?

We’re rapidly approaching the end of fertilizing fescue or bluegrass this spring. If you choose to make one final application before next fall.

FERTILIZING IN MAY

If you regularly water your cool season (fescue and/or bluegrass) lawn during the summer OR you have not applied fertilizer this spring, this is your last chance to feed your lawn until September. This application has a couple of rules:

  • Timing- fertilize early to no later than mid-May

Use less nitrogen than fall applications and use a higher percentage of slow release nitrogen than fall applications. The Garden Center likes organic Milorganite. It works and has a very reasonable cost.

FEED ZOYSIA/BERMUDAGRASS IN SUMMER

Fertility strategies for zoysia and bermudagrass are considerably different than fescue/bluegrass.

FERTILIZE ZOYSIA AND BERMUDAGRASS AT FULL GREENUP

Unlike cool season grasses, zoysia and bermuda are fertilized in summer and prefer more of the quickly available nitrogen at this time.

  • Apply Ferti-lome Lawn Food + Iron about June 1.
  • Make a second application of the same product July 15.

 

LAWN DISEASES

While it’s too early to predict this summer’s disease problems, we can keep a few things in mind.

BROWN PATCH FUNGUS IN FESCUE LAWNS

  • This soil borne fungus typically infects the grass in mid-late May.
  • Avoid afternoon/evening watering that increases disease problems.
  • Avoid fertilizing in late spring or summer.
  • Do not let grass get too high between mowing, and cutting height should be 3-4 inches.
  • Do not mow wet grass, and keep that blade sharp!

We have Ferti-lome F-STOP (liquid or granular) or Ferti-lome Systemic Fungus Control (liquid only) to help with control. Then we hope the weather cooperates!

ALL MULCH IS THE SAME, RIGHT?

Now is a great time to refresh your mulch with Soil Pep- READ MORE……

CHOOSE THE BEST MULCH FOR YOUR NEEDS

Mulch helps soils hold moisture for less plant stress and lower water costs. It also keeps down weeds. That’s the easy part. Our most popular mulch is Soil Pep, a partly decomposed small pine bark mulch. Soil Pep keeps its rich dark brown color without fading like dyed mulches. It also doesn’t crust over like the least expensive mulches. Those are two strong points right there. Like all mulches, Soil Pep eventually breaks down and makes an excellent soil amendment, especially when you prepare new beds with our heavy clay soils. You and your plants will be glad you used “Pep” this year!

LAST CALL TO TREAT EMERALD ASH BORER

We’re about out of time to treat Emerald Ash Borer. We have Ferti-lome Tree and Shrub Drench on hand, and it needs to be used no later than mid-May.

CABBAGE WORM ALERT

If you grow cabbage, collards, mustard, kale or broccoli, be on the lookout for a white butterfly.


GET READY FOR CABBAGE WORMS

This seemingly innocent insect flutters around the plants and lands for 10-15 seconds to lay eggs. The real fun begins when the eggs hatch.

These worms are well camouflaged and have voracious appetites. They love to make holes in leaves. The good news is that the worms are controlled with several products, so keep your guard up on this food robber!

 

THANK YOU FOR YOUR BUSINESS!

COME SEE US AND LET’S KEEP GROWING!

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