MAY 2018 EMAIL NEWSLETTER
ROSE BLACKSPOT
Rose Blackspot is a serious fungus with symptoms that show up around mid- late May. Warm, wet weather or overhead watering really sets it off.
Blackspot is a common fungus on roses:
Spores survive winter in fall leaf debris and mulches.
Overwintered mulch should be removed, discarded, and replaced with fresh mulch.
The disease begins on lower leaves and moves up the plant.
Heavily infected canes have raised red-purplish spots that eventually blacken, and it may be necessary to remove them to prevent spores from infecting the following year.
Control products should be applied beginning at the first sign of disease and follow up treatments will be needed. Soil Service Garden Center has several products available. Treat sooner rather than later.
Organic Control– Copper Fungicide, NG or FL Neem, FL Horticultural Oil
Conventional– Bayer 3-in-1 Insect, Disease and Mite Control, Bayer All-in-One Rose and Flower Care, FL Broad Spectrum Landscape & Garden Fungicide, FL F-Stop
LOOK FOR ROSE SAWFLY FEEDING
We see a ton of sawfly damage on rose leaves. Will this year be more of the same? – READ MORE……
ABOUT ROSE SAWFLY
The rose sawfly is actually related to bees and wasps. After egg hatch, worms begin feeding in mid-late spring and, depending on species, can have multiple generations per year. This means several insect control applications may be needed during the summer. Sawfly feed on green leaf tissue but not the leaf veins. Inspect both the upper and underside of leaves to look for light green worms. 
Several control options are available at Soil Service.
Organic– FL Hort Oil, Bonide Soap, NG Spinosad
Conventional– FL Broad Spectrum Insecticide, Bayer Rose& Flower Insect Killer, Bayer 3-in-1 Insect Disease & Mite Control
GROWING GREAT TOMATOES
Anyone growing tomatoes knows they can be a bit of a challenge. Here are some helpful hints for growing better tomatoes.
YELLOW NUTSEDGE
Yellow nutsedge usually shows up around the end of this month, and if we have a lot of rain, we know it can really take off.
STAY ON TOP OF YELLOW NUTSEDGE
- If ignored it WILL take over your lawn or garden.
- Do not try to dig it up because root fragments left behind will cause even more plants to come up.
- The only way to control it is with a post-emerge product; Ortho Nutsedge Killer or ProSedge (formerly SedgeHammer).
- Treat in late spring or early summer, and multiple applications may be needed.
- The only choice for gardens is glyphosate (Hi-Yield Killz-all) or Roundup. Be persistent!
YELLOW NUTSEDGE IN LAWN 
IS IT TOO LATE TO FERTILIZE FESCUE OR BLUEGRASS?
We’re rapidly approaching the end of fertilizing fescue or bluegrass this spring. If you choose to make one final application before next fall.
FERTILIZING IN MAY
If you regularly water your cool season (fescue and/or bluegrass) lawn during the summer OR you have not applied fertilizer this spring, this is your last chance to feed your lawn until September. This application has a couple of rules:
- Timing- fertilize early to no later than mid-May
Use less nitrogen than fall applications and use a higher percentage of slow release nitrogen than fall applications. The Garden Center likes organic Milorganite. It works and has a very reasonable cost.
FEED ZOYSIA/BERMUDAGRASS IN SUMMER
Fertility strategies for zoysia and bermudagrass are considerably different than fescue/bluegrass.
FERTILIZE ZOYSIA AND BERMUDAGRASS AT FULL GREENUP
Unlike cool season grasses, zoysia and bermuda are fertilized in summer and prefer more of the quickly available nitrogen at this time.
- Apply Ferti-lome Lawn Food + Iron about June 1.
- Make a second application of the same product July 15.
LAWN DISEASES
While it’s too early to predict this summer’s disease problems, we can keep a few things in mind.
BROWN PATCH FUNGUS IN FESCUE LAWNS
- This soil borne fungus typically infects the grass in mid-late May.
- Avoid afternoon/evening watering that increases disease problems.
- Avoid fertilizing in late spring or summer.
- Do not let grass get too high between mowing, and cutting height should be 3-4 inches.
- Do not mow wet grass, and keep that blade sharp!
We have Ferti-lome F-STOP (liquid or granular) or Ferti-lome Systemic Fungus Control (liquid only) to help with control. Then we hope the weather cooperates!
ALL MULCH IS THE SAME, RIGHT?
Now is a great time to refresh your mulch with Soil Pep- READ MORE……
CHOOSE THE BEST MULCH FOR YOUR NEEDS
Mulch helps soils hold moisture for less plant stress and lower water costs. It also keeps down weeds. That’s the easy part. Our most popular mulch is Soil Pep, a partly decomposed small pine ba
rk mulch. Soil Pep keeps its rich dark brown color without fading like dyed mulches. It also doesn’t crust over like the least expensive mulches. Those are two strong points right there. Like all mulches, Soil Pep eventually breaks down and makes an excellent soil amendment, especially when you prepare new beds with our heavy clay soils. You and your plants will be glad you used “Pep” this year!
LAST CALL TO TREAT EMERALD ASH BORER
We’re about out of time to treat Emerald Ash Borer. We have Ferti-lome Tree and Shrub Drench on hand, and it needs to be used no later than mid-May.
CABBAGE WORM ALERT
If you grow cabbage, collards, mustard, kale or broccoli, be on the lookout for a white butterfly.
This seemingly innocent insect flutters around the plants and lands for 10-15 seconds to lay eggs. The real fun begins when the eggs hatch.
These worms are well camouflaged and have voracious appetites. 
They love to make holes in leaves. The good news is that the worms are controlled with several products, so keep your guard up on this food robber!
THANK YOU FOR YOUR BUSINESS!
COME SEE US AND LET’S KEEP GROWING!